VIDEO: Making fresh pasta dough with the Richter brothers from Torches

By Michele Deluca/delucam@gnnewspaper.com
Greater Niagara Newspapers

April 23, 2008 05:10 pm

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They make it look ridiculously easy. But what the Richert brothers do with a little flour, some eggs and water just might make a pasta lover a little weak at the knees.
Handmade pasta dishes are among the specialties served on the eclectic menu at Torches Restaurant in Kenmore.
J.J. and Kevin Richert, both former executive chefs from Buffalo restaurants including Prime 490 and Nektar, now have their own kitchen where they can create their unique style of freehand culinary expression that J.J. calls “eclectic.”
The brothers bought what used to be Tsunami Restaurant from local chef Mike Andrzejewski, who has since opened up Sea Bar in Williamsville.
The Richerts are chefs’ chefs and on more than occasion a collection of area chefs from restaurants including Andrzejewski, Kevin O’Connell from O’Connell’s American Bistro and the chefs from Oliver’s and Lombardo’s gather after hours to eat, talk about cooking and take in a little “therapy,” J.J. said.
On a recent afternoon, dishes came out of the kitchen carrying wine-braised oxtail shredded into ricotta cheese tucked into hand-made, deep-fried wontons. Another plate held a fresh ravioli cuddling a mix of ricotta with shrimp and lobster, steamed in a hearty seafood broth.
A taste test of the deepfried oxtail wontons was a revelation of crunchiness and smooth creaminess, anchored by the meaty flavor of the braised oxtail.
So, too, the seafood ravioli, stunning to the taster for the contrast between the simplicity of the preparation and the velvety texture of the seafood-infused cheese and pasta.
Among the varied menu items each night, the hand-made pastas help to create a canvas for the finishing sauces that seem to elevate all the flavors of a dish, Kevin said, adding that, for the effort, “the flavors make all the difference in the world.”
For those seeking personal lessons, J.J. teaches at classes at the Culinary Institute at Auburn Watson in Cheektowaga. He also offers personal cooking lessons in his own kitchen to small groups on Sundays when the restaurant is closed. The group lesson include wines and personal guidance in creating a gourmet meal.
“It’s outrageously expensive,” Richert said. His smile seems to underline his certainty that the experience is worth every penny. Gourmet accompaniments aside, the brothers maintain that making the pasta is easy.
“Anybody can do it,” J.J. said. “It’s a matter of wanting to do it.”
Below are recipes for some of the fresh pasta doughs Kevin creates. The finishing sauces are described without measurements, just as the brothers prepared them during a recent videotaping session for Greater Niagara Newspapers.
Kevin Richter’s fresh pasta dough
8 ounces Caputo flour (or regular flour)
6 egg yolks
1 whole egg
1 tbsp. of milk
1 tsp. of extra virgin olive oil
pinch of salt
Place flour in bowl and create a well in the center of the flour. Add eggs into well. Mix with hand, gently and evenly pulling flour from the sides of the bowl. When flour mixture begins to ball, continue to circle hand in the bowl and pull the sides of the dough into the center. When the dough creates a solid ball, put a little flour on the workspace. Knead the dough for about 10 minutes. Wrap in plastic, let sit at room temperature for an hour. Shape in pasta machine or roll out and use hand ravioli cutter.
Torches’ Wontons
3 cups of all-purpose flour
8 ounces of water
Place flour in bowl. Add water. Stir until flour and water are mixed and shape into ball. Sprinkle flour on flat surface and knead dough for about 10 minutes. Add flour if mixture is sticky. Dough can used immediately and can be hand rolled or pressed through a pasta machine. For won tons, cut into squares and fill with a mixture of the chef’s choice. Steam or deep fry.
Richter’s potato gnocchi
4 medium sized potatoes peeled and boiled
3/4 pound of butter in slices
salt and pepper
3/4 cup parmesan reggiano
1 egg
4 cups flour
Mash hot potatoes, add butter slices. Add flour slowly until dough creates a ball. Knead well (about 10 minutes) adding flour until firm ball is created. Pat into square about 3/4 inch high. Slice into strips and roll each strip into rope, then cut rope into inch pieces. Finish pieces by rolling on a wooden gnocchi board to create groves or just gently place into boiling water for about seven minutes until gnocchis float. Flash chill in cold water until ready to use.
Contact editor Michele DeLuca at 693-1000, ext. 157.

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